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The sole of Nike's (NKE) new Air Jordan is made with ground-up bits of old Nike sneakers. But the company isn't selling it as an eco-friendly shoe: That might not be good for business.
Nike, which is No. 42 on BusinessWeek 's list of the top-performing companies, has an unusual problem. Like many companies, it is trying to make its supply chain and products greener, which brings obvious environmental benefits and, just as important these days, financial ones, too. But while executives at General Electric (GE) and Wal-Mart (WMT) eagerly advertise the eco-conscious changes they're making, those at Nike choose to play down sustainability initiatives. Nike customers buy shoes to make them feel fast, slick, and hip; they don't care much about being eco-chic. "Nike has always been about winning," says Dean Crutchfield, an independent branding consultant in New York. "How is sustainability relevant to its brand?"
Nike came to this same conclusion after a less-than-successful experiment a few years ago. The company launched its first line of environmentally friendly shoes, called "Considered," in 2005. It had high hopes for a walking boot, made with brown hemp fibers, that looked obviously earthy. Critics called the $110 shoes "Air Hobbits" because of their forest-dweller feel and took Nike to task for a design that detracted from its high-tech image. The boots didn't sell well, and within a year were taken off the shelves.
The lesson for Nike was that its green innovations should continue, but its customers shouldn't be able to tell. "We want to do more and say less," is the way Lorrie Vogel, who oversees Nike's green business practices, puts it. The company also has to be careful about promoting itself as socially responsible because of its past use of sweatshop labor in Asian factories.
The sustainability push comes at a time when Chief Executive Mark G. Parker is also trying to streamline operations. The financial imperative to do so has never been clearer: Nike's revenues fell by 2%, to $4.4 billion, during its most recent quarter, which ended Feb. 28. In May it laid off 5% of its worldwide staff. The company doesn't give estimates of how much it might save by making its manufacturing more green, but it expects to reduce the amount of material it wastes by 17% over the next decade.
SAO PAULO — Sportswear giant Nike Inc. announced Wednesday that it will stop using leather from cattle raised in Brazil's Amazon rainforest, saying the move is part of the company's commitment to curbing the region's deforestation.
In a statement, Beaverton, Ore.-based Nike said its Brazilian leather suppliers have until next July 1 to "create an ongoing, traceable and transparent system to provide credible assurances that leather used for Nike products is from cattle raised outside of the Amazon Biome."
"We understand how important rainforests are to the health of the planet and the implications deforestation has on climate change and global warming" the statement added.
Nike did not say how much it spends on Amazon leather.
A statement from Greenpeace praised the company, saying the company's decision was prompted by a recent report from the environmental group showing that leather and meat produced from cattle in the Amazon are major contributors to the region's deforestation.
"We applaud the leadership that Nike is taking on the critical issue of Amazon deforestation," Greenpeace's national campaigns director, Lisa Finaldi, said.
She said deforestation in the Amazon — most of which involves the burning of trees to clear land for ranching and farming — is the world's fourth-biggest emitter of carbon dioxide into the atmosphere.
According to the Greenpeace report, "Slaughtering the Amazon," which was released in June, "every eight seconds, an acre of Amazon rainforest is destroyed for Brazilian cattle ranching, which is the biggest single driver of deforestation in the world."
The report was released after a three-year investigation that "tracked beef, leather and other cattle products from ranches involved in deforestation at the heart of the Amazon rainforest," Greenpeace said.
The Center for the Brazilian Tanning Industry did not have immediate comment on Nike's announcement, but its president, Luiz Bittencourt, said last week that the sector had the same concerns.
In a signed article published by the Sao Paulo newspaper Diario de Comercio e Industria, he said guidelines were being prepared to guarantee that Brazilian leather is produced in "an environmentally sound way."
Last month, the Greenpeace report prompted Brazil's three largest supermarket chains, Wal-Mart, Carrefour and Pao de Acuar, to announce that they would suspend contracts with suppliers found to be involved in Amazon deforestation, the Brazilian Association of Supermarkets said on its Web site.
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